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Hippodrome of Constantinople: A Walking Guide to Every Monument

By Hasan KınayTravel Entrepreneur
4 min read
Hippodrome of Constantinople: A Walking Guide to Every Monument

The open plaza between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia is the old Hippodrome of Constantinople, and thousands of people cross it every day without knowing they're standing on the spine of a Roman chariot-racing stadium. The monuments are still there, in a line, mostly ignored. It costs nothing to see them and takes about half an hour. You just need to know what you're looking at.

The square is officially Sultanahmet Meydanı today. The Hippodrome ran roughly north to south, and the surviving monuments sit along what was the central barrier of the track, called the spina. Walk them in order and the whole shape of the old stadium starts to make sense.

Sultanahmet Meydanı

What monuments can you see at the Hippodrome of Constantinople?

Four main monuments survive along the old track's central barrier: the Egyptian Obelisk of Thutmose III, the Serpent Column, the Walled Obelisk, and the German Fountain at the northern end. All four stand in the open square between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, free to view at any hour, no ticket or gate.

The German Fountain

Start at the northern end, closest to Hagia Sophia. The German Fountain is the octagonal domed structure with green interior mosaics and gold detailing. It's the youngest thing here by well over a thousand years, built in Germany, shipped in pieces, and assembled on this spot in 1900 as a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II to commemorate his visit to the Ottoman sultan. It looks nothing like the rest of the square, which is exactly why people photograph it and move on.

The Egyptian Obelisk of Thutmose III

Walk south and you reach the pink granite obelisk on a carved marble base. This one is genuinely ancient. It was cut in Egypt around 1450 BC for the pharaoh Thutmose III, stood at the temple of Karnak in Luxor, and was hauled to Constantinople and raised here in 390 AD by the emperor Theodosius. The hieroglyphs are original Egyptian. The marble base underneath is Roman, carved with scenes of Theodosius watching the races from the imperial box. Read the base and you're looking at the Hippodrome drawn by people who used it.

Sultanahmet Camii

The Serpent Column

A few steps further sits a twisted bronze column, shorter than you'd expect and sunk below the current pavement level. This is the oldest Greek monument in Istanbul. It was originally cast around 479 BC from the melted-down weapons of defeated Persian armies and stood at the Temple of Apollo in Delphi. Three serpent heads once topped it; one fragment survives in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum nearby. What's left is the coiled body, roughly 2,500 years old, standing where Constantine had it moved.

The Walled Obelisk

At the southern end is a rough stone obelisk built from fitted blocks, not a single piece. It was raised by the emperor Constantine VII in the 10th century and once had bronze plaques covering the whole surface. Crusaders stripped the bronze in 1204. What remains is the stone core, which is why it looks weathered next to the sharp Egyptian granite up the square.

How long does it take to walk around the Hippodrome in Istanbul?

About 30 to 40 minutes covers all four monuments at a relaxed pace, reading the base plaques and taking photos. The square is flat, open, and only around 400 meters end to end. If you're pairing it with Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, budget the Hippodrome as a 30-minute link between the two, since it sits directly between them.

There are no queues and no entry point, so you can start from either end. Coming out of Hagia Sophia you'll hit the German Fountain first. Coming from the Blue Mosque you'll reach the Walled Obelisk first and walk north.

What happened at the Hippodrome of Constantinople?

The Hippodrome was the social and political center of Byzantine Constantinople for over a thousand years, built by Septimius Severus around 200 AD and expanded by Constantine after 324 AD. It held chariot races for crowds of tens of thousands, but it was also where emperors were cheered, riots began, and public life played out.

The most famous event was the Nika riots of 532 AD, when rival racing factions united against the emperor Justinian. The revolt ended with imperial troops killing a large number of people inside the Hippodrome itself. The stadium slowly fell out of use after that, and centuries of building, earthquake, and looting left only the spina monuments you see today. The track surface is buried a few meters below the modern pavement.

For the historical background and dates, the official İstanbul Archaeology Museums site is a reliable starting point, since several Hippodrome fragments (including the missing serpent head) are held there. You can read more on the Turkish state museums portal.

İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri

The Archaeology Museum is a seven-minute walk north, up through Gülhane Park's edge, and it's where the Hippodrome's loose pieces ended up. If you liked the monuments, go see the serpent head there.

Take it further

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Frequently asked questions

Is the Hippodrome of Constantinople free to visit?

Yes. The Hippodrome is an open public square in Sultanahmet with no gate, ticket, or opening hours. You can walk through and view all four monuments at any time of day for free.

Where is the Hippodrome of Constantinople located?

It's the long open plaza directly between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, officially called Sultanahmet Meydanı. The monuments run north to south along what was the central barrier of the old chariot track.

How old is the Egyptian Obelisk in Sultanahmet?

The obelisk itself was cut in Egypt around 1450 BC for the pharaoh Thutmose III, making it over 3,400 years old. It was raised on its Roman marble base in the Hippodrome in 390 AD by the emperor Theodosius.

Can you still see the Serpent Column heads?

The column in the square has lost its three serpent heads. One surviving head fragment is displayed at the İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri, a seven-minute walk north of the Hippodrome.

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